August 31

Financial Independence in 5 Simple Steps

Let’s face it. Almost all of us at least thought about reaching a new level of financial freedom – financial independence. It’s not surprising, considering the options it provides you – including the most scarce resource in our lives – time.

While there are many resources available outlining the path to financial independence – they typically overcomplicate or oversimplify what it truly takes. Here, I spell out 5, simple – but quantifiable – steps to ensure you’re moving methodically in the right direction.

Step 1 – Expenses

The first step is to track your expenses. How much do you spend each year?

You’ll want into take into account your essential expenses such as housing, transportation and food consumption costs (which are arguably also some of the highest line-item costs on your annual list of expenses).

You’ll also want to take into account discretionary expenses such as your subscription services, vacation, and all that fun stuff that you may consider leisure.

Now – the following are fictional numbers to illustrate an example but hopefully you’ll get the idea. You may have rent, utilities and associated housing costs that that add up to $2,000 a month.

Let’s also assume you have transportation costs inclusive of car payment, gas, insurance etc at about $400 a month.

Let’s then assume we have Food expenses monthly at a very moderate $150 a month.

This brings our ESSENTIAL expenses to $2,000 each month.

However, we must also take into account our Discretionary expenses. Let’s round up everything under this bucket to about $450 a month.

The total for our current monthly expenses, accounting for both essential and discretionary expenses – now comes to $3,000 a month.

Step 2 – Calculate your Required Nest Egg

Now, we need to calculate what net worth we need to have in investible assets to effectively cover these expenses with just returns. This is when something called the Safe Withdrawal Rate (SWR) comes in handy. Check out my other article on Safe Withdrawal Rate if you’d like to learn more about what it is.

The widely adopted SWR is 4% – meaning that when you retire, it’s safe to assume that you can survive annually off the 4% returns and your invested capital will not deplete to 0 for as long as you’re alive.

Using my example in Step 1, if my monthly expenses are $3,000, that is $36,000 annualized. To calculate what networth I need to be financially independent, Divide 36,000 by 4% or .04 and I get the number 900,000. So now I know that I need $900,000 invested into assets to be financially independent at a SWR of 4%.

Step 3 – Calculate the Difference

In this step, you must calculate the difference. How much MORE assets do you need to reach that $900,000 example “FIRE Number”?

To do that, first calculate your existing net worth.

This should be all your investible assets, such as your checking and savings accounts, brokerage accounts, IRAs, 401Ks, investment properties, among any other assets where you store any type of equity.

For the sake of our example, let’s say I have $120,000 saved up already in the form of investments. Now, I know I need to make $780,000 to reach my FIRE number, since 900,000 – 120,000 is 780,000.

Step 4 – Calculate when you’ll reach FIRE

In this step, we compute how many years it will take from now to reach that FIRE Number, given our current trajectory.

We know we need 780,000 to retire in this example. But how quickly can we reach that number? Let’s we save $50,000 a year (through savings accounts as well as 401k contributions). We divide our “difference” number in the last step by our annual savings number, or 780,000 / 50,000 = 15.6 years.

Comment down below how long it will take you guys! I’m very curious to see what everyone’s horizon looks like.

Step 5 – Work Towards FIRE

Now here’s the kicker, it will actually take you much less time to retire than 15.6 years. Here’s why: you might decide to reduce your expenses now so that you can save money more quickly – especially your discretionary expenses. Additionally, your income may go up in upcoming years as you progress in your career or develop other supplemental streams of income, further enabling you to save more money. Finally, let’s not forget – if you’re putting your savings to work each year, investing it wisely, it will compound and help you grow your net worth much FASTER than initially planned. It’s really that simple…optimize your lifestyle so that your income goes up, your expenses go down and your investments compound.

Once again, this is just an example but pretty much a guaranteed way for anyone to achieve financial independence using quantifiable and very controllable measures. As with any goal in life, the first step is to quantify the what and when which we’ve done here.

I hope you found this helpful and enjoy your path to financial independence.

Category: Income, Investing, Retirement/FIRE | LEAVE A COMMENT
July 31

The Best Dividend Portfolio for Building Wealth

10,973 Dividends Stock Photos | Free & Royalty-free Dividends Images | Depositphotos

I often get asked (by 20 and 30-something old’s) what the optimal dividend portfolio looks like for acquiring wealth.

While this is a matter of personal opinion, this seems like the wrong question to be asking. The reason being is that using a dividend strategy will likely cripple your path to wealth, if anything.

I wrote some other article here on the topic of why dividend stocks can be good or bad.

My Opinion

My answer to those asking me the question above is, none. There is no optimal dividend portfolio I would advocate for if building wealth is the goal. Dividends are taxable events, and by explicitly employing them in your portfolio, you are forcing a taxable event.

By forcing a taxable event, you’re foregoing extra capital you could have used to further propel or compound your returns (in the form of growth stocks, for example). Investing in an Index fund such as the S&P500, for example, will return insignificant dividends but moderate returns in the form of growth (about 7-8%) that will compound. In contrast, by opting for dividend stocks, you lessen the compounding effect since you pay taxes on each year’s dividend returns, and as a result have less capital to invest the following year compared to having invested in the index fund in the first place.

To reiterate, for the “building wealth” stage of your career, employing a dividend portfolio strategy is not recommended as it is not as effective as simply going the growth portfolio route.

However, if you are adamant on using a dividend-only portfolio, I would highly recommend picking only value-based stocks from a diverse variety of industries that have yields, in aggregate, that average out to something close to your Safe Withdrawal Rate (SWR) (probably around 4-5%). To get the most bang for your buck, you’ll likely find your best opportunities when the stock value undergoes temporary market corrections/dips, making it a cheap acquisition with a moderate dividend yield.

This way, you have less to lose and more to gain.

Category: Income, Investing, Retirement/FIRE, Stocks | LEAVE A COMMENT
June 30

The Hidden Dangers of a 9-5 Job

Having a 9-5 job is the millennial standard source of income. It is often seen as the steadiest way to get rich slowly. This is absolutely true, to an extent. Having a job is more stable than starting a business for example, but a job may be at a disadvantage in some aspects:

Risk

Again, a 9-5 job is a great way to build and grow your career in an organized fashion. Unlike a business, there is generally less personal risk involved (from what we’re told). Unless, of course, you consider the possibility of the company going bankrupt, or your position at the company being terminated. Especially if you were the breadwinner of the household or the sole provider and this had happened, it would be extremely devastating. The fate of your financial future and family wellbeing may be strictly at the mercy of your company or team leader. Talk about risk, huh?

Costs

Historically, it has been advised that starting a business is more expensive than just joining the work-force. Though, the tables have turned. A full-time corporate job has higher start-up costs than a business in our modern society. Don’t believe me? How much did that bachelor’s degree qualification cost you again? $60,000 you say? Oh, and it took 4 years to complete? What if you started an e-commerce business? A webhosting service can cost lower than $5 per month to set up. A full-service e-commerce platform with all the bells and whistles can cost $30 per month, and this can be instantly up and running within hours, not years. While you won’t be netting the average $56,000 annual income U.S. from your business as of Day 1, the return on investment and growth prospects can be more rewarding long term.

Impact

Bluntly put, A 9-5 job alone isn’t enough to build wealth optimally. You will likely spend a great portion of your income on living expenses, and those expenses will increase at a faster rate than your income unless you really know how to navigate and climb the income ladder to create a bigger saving surplus. Remember, even then, money is not an asset. You can save all the money you want, but 10 years later you will note that the buying power of the monies has diminished due to inflation. The point to grasp here is that while a 9-5 job certainly serves as a strong foundation to wealth upon, it really should be supplemented by other avenues such as additional income streams (such as a side-gig or business or rental income), or through acquiring appreciating assets such as stocks and real-estate. While your savings or cash do store value, additional income and assets are what will propel you faster through the journey.

Income Ceiling

Not to mention, your annual income from a day job will eventually reach a ceiling. There may be some exceptions such as some positions in tech, or a high-end sales role. In contrast, investment returns are generally calculated and sought as a percentage of the asset value. This causes a snowball effect and actually compounds your income higher rather than constraining you to a ceiling. For example, owning the VOO (Vanguard 500 Index Fund ETF) can yield 7-10% growth, on average, each year. When the stock is worth $300, expect $21 growth. When it’s worth $400, expect $28 growth. Your net worth grows faster over time as a result.

The benefits of a 9-5 job are endless. However, in this day in age, it cannot optimally grow your wealth unless you have a supplementary source or plan of action.

Category: General, Income, Investing, Retirement/FIRE, Stocks | LEAVE A COMMENT
May 31

Tax Deferral – Order of Operations

Have you ever wondered if you’re doing everything possible to maximize your long term financial outlook by taking advantage of tax deferred programs? There are many to choose from, and some are provided by the fed, whereas others are provided by the state and even your employer!

Tax planning and optimization is a huge component to building wealth long term by reducing your current tax liability. Below are several of the most popular such programs that the majority of the working mass-population can employ, and the sequence in which I recommend using them, with corresponding reasoning. I strongly suggest you first read about how each program works through my write-ups and also research on your own which programs work best for your scenario and limitations.

Order of operations:

401k – up to company match only. The company is giving you free money, sometimes dollar for dollar up to a certain percentage. For example, if your company matches 3%, you should certainly elect to at least contribute 3% of your income to the 401k, as, with the company match, your 3% automatically becomes 6% when vested. This is a 100% return on your investment! You can use this account to elect which investment opportunities are best for your goals further grow your contributions. This ranks 1st due to the nature of the 100% return on investment instantaneously.

HSA/FSA – up to annual maximum. I would recommend maximizing this account as a second priority if it is an HSA account, as it is exempt from income taxation. You can make purchases using pre-tax dollars! FSA accounts are a little different since that money may evaporate if you don’t use it In the same year, so I wouldn’t consider maxing out to the annual limit unless you anticipate using it all. You can use this account to elect which investment opportunities are best for your goals to further grow your contributions. This ranks 2nd due to the valuable nature of it being completely tax-free.

401k – up to annual maximum. If you don’t need the extra money right away, consider stashing as much as possible as a 3rd priority, up to the annual maximum, into your 401k. This is especially useful if you are a high income earner and want to reduce your current tax liability while having the belief that your tax liability will be lower when you’re ready to retire and take distributions. You can use this account to elect which investment opportunities are best for your goals to further grow your contributions. This ranks 3rd due to the nature of having the greatest ability to exponentially grow your contributions over time, utilizing the power of compounding with pre-tax dollars ($100 Pre-tax can grow faster than $100-tax post-tax dollars).

529 Plans – up to the annual maximum. Consider this as a 4th priority if your state allows you to. By funding it with after-tax dollars, you can then use this as a brokerage account to grow your contributions. You can then use these funds for educational purposes for yourself or assigned beneficiaries. The returns from the investments are tax-free and penalty-free as long as they are used for approved, educational purposes. This ranks 4th, preceding the Roth IRA as you can use the funds without any age restrictions.

Roth IRA – up to the annual maximum. This should be your 5th priority as it is a powerful way to use your post-tax dollars to invest into stocks or other instruments with tax-free growth. This means regardless of how much money you put in and how much it grows, you will never have to pay any taxes withdrawing the contributions or returns of this account, ever! This ranks 5th because you do need to meet the age criteria to be able to withdraw the “earnings” or profits without a penalty, as it is meant to be a retirement account.

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April 30

Why Realized Income is Bad for Building Wealth

Money, Finance, Mortgage, Loan, Real-Estate, Business

Do you like having income?

Let’s face it – we all like income, and more of it is always better.

After all, income is what helps us grow our wealth overtime. This is why we’re often fixated on growing our income. Right…?

Nope

On the contrary, higher income results in diminishing marginal benefit. The sole reason for this is the associated tax liability. The more you earn or realize in income, the more you pay in taxes not just in terms of dollars but in terms of the percentage of that income subject to taxes. In certain states in the United States, an income of $1,000,000 may be subject to over $500,000 (or 50%) in taxes. This is bad for wealth building.

Optimizing wealth building requires that you treat every dollar as an employee, and fully deploy that “workforce” to work for you. The problem with realized income is that in contrast to unrealized income, it is subject to taxes and thus it reduces your net proceeds (take-home pay) and as a result, you now have less available dollars to work for you. This is one of the reasons why the wealthiest folks tend to find ways to reduce tax liability – they grow their unrealized income (such as holding onto invested stocks or real estate that have gained value instead of selling them) and minimize their realized income (which would otherwise be subject to taxes).

What Can I Do?

Much like the wealthy, what are some things you can do to reduce your realized income while maximizing your unrealized income/net worth? Here are just a few ideas, especially if you are employed.

  1. Take advantage of a 401K or equivalent plan if your employer offers it. This will set aside funds in a tax-deferred account for you, so you don’t pay taxes on them now and can let them compound until you are ready to withdraw them.
  2. Take advantage of an HSA (Health Savings Account) or equivalent plan if your employer offers it. This will set aside funds for health related expenses based on your election, and those funds will be contributed to with pre-tax dollars, and still not be subject to taxes while expended.
  3. Hold your investments for the long-haul. Do not sell stocks or real estate investments that have substantial capital gains from growing in value – especially not short term gains which are subject to higher taxation rates.
  4. Minimize Dividend Income. If you hold stocks that pay out dividends, they are usually subject to income taxes even though you still hold the stock itself, and even if you opt to reinvest the dividends. This is because you are being paid distributions. It may be more favorable to hold stocks that grow in value but pay little to no dividends instead.

All of these are some powerful strategies even the average American can utilize to reduce realized income. You may be reducing your take-home checks by doing so, but in the grand scheme of things your net worth is poised to grow much faster as a result.

Remember, this is something most wealthy people do. It is not tax evasion, it is tax planning.

Have you realized all the disadvantages of realized income now?

Category: General, Income, Investing, Retirement/FIRE, Stocks | LEAVE A COMMENT
February 28

What is Fear of Missing Out (FOMO)?

Fear of Missing Out (FOMO) is a term that was coined to represent the psychology a potential investor may go through for not executing early enough on the investment. In a nutshell, it is anticipation that an investment pay prove profitable and by not investing in it now, we may miss out on significant gains.

As an example, let’s look at bitcoin. Bitcoin has taken the last 12 months by storm. It was under $6,000 at one point last year and peaked well above $50,000 this month. Some of us may think a huge correction (or a reduction/adjustment in price to justify a more disciplined growth) is on its way. Others may feel that based on its current rate of growth, it may grow to as much as $100,000 later this year. The latter group of individuals may be more inclined to invest into bitcoin at the current price-point, due to pressure of FOMO. That is, because they don’t want to miss out on the potential $50,000 upside, they are motivated to purchase now, regardless of the current price and risks that it poses – simply due to the weight they put on its potential.

FOMO Sucks

Let’s be real, losing money is bad. But do you know what’s worse? FOMO. For me personally, it hurts more when I don’t purchase an asset I believe in and it proves to be a worthy investment. It doesn’t hurt as much if I purchase an investment I believe in and it fails. At least I tried – I put in my best faith, and I put my money where my mouth is. Psychologically, we usually don’t regret what we’ve done, but rather we regret what we didn’t do. And this is why FOMO is a thing.

The Solution to FOMO

So we’ve established what FOMO is, and we’ve also highlighted that FOMO is bad. FOMO is something we should address, not suppress. Speaking from my personal experience, the solution to this is Dollar-Cost-Averaging (DCA). I wrote a post on this earlier, and I highly recommend that you read it. By employing DCA, we can mitigate FOMO. Regardless of whether you’re projecting an asset such as a stock to go up or down in the future, if you buy into it gradually over time, you will vest into your conviction gradually. A personal example of this is my strategy with bitcoin. As bitcoin was appreciating in value in recent months, I really wanted to jump on the hype train. However, as most investors warn, never invest into something you don’t understand. And bitcoin is something I didn’t yet fully understand. So I was in a conflicting situation where the wisdom is to not invest in bitcoin, but I was going through FOMO. So what did I do? I bought a little bit of bitcoin, so that I can at least get my foot in the door, and then do more research to formulate my thesis on the longevity of this investment. Ever since then, I have been gradually buying bitcoin via the DCA strategy that I use with stocks.

Conclusion

Losing money is bad, but leaving money on the table can be worse. Don’t let FOMO get the best of you. Dollar-Cost-Average into it, and you will find the right balance between buying too much versus not buying at all.

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January 31

Dollar Cost Averaging

A buy-and-hold investing strategy that has never served me wrong is the Dollar Cost Averaging (DCA) method. The name implies exactly what it is, a means of averaging out the acquisition price of your stocks.

Buying stocks at once in lump-sum exposes you to greater risk. You might buy 10 shares of a stock worth $100 each in January. A few months later, the stock drops to $55 each. Since your total cost-basis was $1,000, and the value of stocks after those few months was $550, you have an unrealized loss of $450.

Conversely, let’s suppose you buy 1 share of the stock each month, for 10 months. It’s valued at $100 in January, but drops $5 each month. Your cost-basis each month is as follows:

January – 100

February – 95

March – 90

April – 85

May – 80

June – 75

July – 70

August – 65

September – 60

October – 55

You now own 10 shares, at a total cost basis of $775. Since the stock kept going down, your position is now worth $550, but you’re only down $225 as opposed to the $450 in the former method. This is the value of dollar cost averaging. While you may argue that if the stock had went up instead of down, you would have been better off lump-sum investing rather than the DCA method, it is the ideal strategy for the “better safe than sorry” mindset. Since timing the market usually rarely works in our favor, the DCA strategy is your best bet to reap in rewards while mitigating volatility exposure.

Another way to visualize DCA is to imagine how a 401K plan works, if you have one. Funds of your choice are purchased with relatively the same contribution rate each pay cycle (deducted from your gross income). So in effect, by purchasing funds at market price every 2 weeks with the same dollar amount contribution, you are dollar cost averaging your investment elections throughout the year. When stocks do well, your portfolio value is higher. When stocks do poorly, your portfolio value may decline but you also get the opportunity to purchase your next round of funds/stocks at a lower price as a result. There is always an upside with DCA, as long as you train your psychology to acknowledge this.

Have you ever used DCA, or do you use a 401k? What are your thoughts on this strategy?

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December 31

The Safe Withdrawal Rate (SWR)

Let’s just get right to it. The SWR is a theoretical, projected percentage of your investments that you can safely withdraw each year (based on the rate of return of your investments) with the peace of mind that your portfolio will maintain its value.

In layman’s terms, let’s assume you have $1,000,000 saved. The standard, conservative SWR assumed in the FIRE community is 4%. What this means is that on average, your portfolio will return 4% or $40,000 a year, and so you can safely assume that you can withdraw and use that $40,000 while your portfolio remains around that $1,000,000 mark, in perpetuity. Your portfolio basically becomes this machine that spits out 4% a year (SWR) to you while it keeps its value.

This is why the SWR is so important. This is typically one of the key metrics used to determine the investment portfolio at which an individual can retire and live off of returns. I recommend you reverse calculate by starting with your expected annual expenses in retirement, figuring out what SWR you expect (since it doesn’t have to be 4%. It could be more or less but is just used as a guideline of your expectations. The stock market has returned 7-8% on average annually, so you might be able to get away with 7%, but 4% is recommended to avoid bad surprises and to remain conservative), and then finally dividing those expenses by the rate of return to figure out what investment is required to achieve that SWR.

As an example, perhaps you want to live a comfortable life, and in the area you expect to live, a comfortable life costs about $80,000. You don’t like surprises, so you conservatively assume you’ll get about a 4% return on your investments. Now, compute $80,000/.04 and you should get $2,000,000. That is your FIRE number with a SWR of 4%.

Alternatively, if your average rate of return was 8% instead, and you were comfortable with 8% being your SWR, you’d compute $80,000/.08 to see that you would need $1,000,000 of assets invested to retire.

In a nutshell, that is SWR. I hope you found this little blurb on SWR helpful!

But this poses another question. Using your SWR and expected returns, what is your FIRE number? Let me know your thoughts.

Category: General, Investing, Retirement/FIRE | LEAVE A COMMENT
November 30

3 Reasons why Limit Orders can be your Best Friend

What are limit orders?

To give you some background, in the stock trading world, a limit order is an order you can place in advance to sell a security at a certain – or better – price. For example, if you own a stock and you set a limit-sell order at a particular price, the order will execute as soon as the stock price is equal to or greater than the particular price. Conversely, if there is a stock you’d like to purchase at a certain entry point, you can place a limit-buy order at a particular price, which will execute that order if and when the stock price is equal to or less than the particular price. Example: TSLA stock is currently $567 and you want to buy it only if it can be had for $500 or less. You should set a limit buy order for TSLA at $500. If and when TSLA drops from $567 to $500 or less, your order will automatically execute.

1. Autonomy


One of the most advantageous highlights of limit orders is the ability to not have to babysit your portfolio. For this exact reason, many investors opt to purchase index funds as a “set-it-and-forget-it” strategy. However, some investors do elect to pick individual stocks and manage their own customized portfolio. Maybe you are the first or latter type of investor, and don’t necessarily monitor the live market price of your stock all day, every day when the market is open and want to minimize any chance of you missing the right opportunity to purchase or sell a particular stock. Limit orders can solve for this by serving as an avenue for you to dictate a future transaction based on a stock’s price. It’s like having your own assistant whom you’ve instructed to execute orders based on your price requirements.

2. exact price execution


Perhaps you wish to execute your trade at a particular price based on a mathematical analysis. Maybe you’ve computed the perfect price for a stock to be worthwhile selling at to lock in a profit, or a perfect round number to purchase a stock for. The market prices move very quickly, so sometimes the best way to make such a trade at a fixed price is a limit order trade.

3. Remove Emotion from the Game

A third benefit of limit orders is being able to trade in isolation from your emotions. When you see a stock or your portfolio going up or down or just being outright overly volatile, you may be likely to make impulse decisions. Rather than allowing these emotions and impulses influence your decision, a limit order can be a means of executing the trade based solely on your planned analytical, mathematical agenda.

I hope you found this helpful. As an exercise, why don’t you go ahead and try placing a limit-order for your very next transaction?

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October 31

The Rule of 72

The last post talked about the effects of compounding. That got me thinking. Have you ever wondered how long it would take you to double your money? Or, maybe you knew how long you anticipate doubling your money, but wanted to know the rate of return that would allow you to do so.

Luckily, there’s a handy math trick to help you compute just that. Let’s say I want to double my money, and have various investment options with a rate of return of 4%, 6% and 9% respectively. Obviously, 9% would be favorable and common sense would help infer that it would be the quickest route of the 3 to double your investment.

But how long would each Rate of Return take to double your money?

The Trick

If you divide the rate of returns (as whole numbers, not percentages) by 72, the result would be the number of years it would take to double your money.

72/4 = 18

72/6 = 12

72/9 = 8

It would take 18 years, 12 years and 8 years, to double your money at a rate of return of 4%, 6% and 8%, respectively.

Conversely, let’s say we have $10,000 and want to double it to $20,000 within about 3 years. What would our annual rate of return consistently have to be to achieve this?

The same calculation applies

Except this time, we can divide the number of years by 72 to get the required rate of return.

72/3 =24

You would have to invest $10,000, at an annual rate of return of at least 24% to grow this amount to $20,000 within 3 years.

I hope this cool little trick was helpful, and that it has compounding benefits for you in the future.

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